Starting my Upper Cabinets! Ram ProMaster Van Build Conversion – Episode 13 | Jason Klunk
Installing Upper Cabinets! Ram ProMaster Van Build Conversion – Episode 14 | Jason Klunk
And just like that we’re on to cabinetry! The first one took me like 9 hours because I couldn’t make up my mind on how I wanted to build them. Figuring out the angles of the sides is the toughest part about building the upper cabinets IMO. The second and third boxes were about 6 hours. I was going back and forth between using ½” or ¾” plywood for the upper cabinets, but I’m glad I went with the ½”.
I’m really stoked with how these turned out. I will be making the fronts later on in the build. I was really worried that the cabinets would not feel secure on the wall, but they are insanely strong. The boxes are ½” Baltic birch plywood and the face frames are Poplar 1×2’s.
There are a lot of ways to build cabinets, so I’m not going to go into detail here about how I did mine, you can follow along in the video(s) if you haven’t built cabinets before and you need some inspiration.
I’ll be working on my convertible bed/bench seats next, so stay tuned. Yewwww!
Installing a Shiplap Ceiling! Ram ProMaster Van Build Conversion – Episode 12 | Jason Klunk
I had planned on doing something completely different for my ceiling, but at the last minute decided to switch to using shiplap. There are a lot of options for shiplap, I originally wanted to use the more square looking shiplap but I was not impressed with the quality of the wood. I went with a more solid wood for the shiplap ceiling and this will allow me to drill into not only my studs but also my ceiling for support in places where I can’t hit a stud. The ceiling was a fun project and it’s always nice when you get an easy win in the van. Things are starting to come together!
Ben from Vista Vans (vistavans.com) helped run the electrical I needed to get done so I could get my ceiling closed up. Thanks Ben!
CR Laurence Universal Window Install! Ram ProMaster Van Build Conversion – Episode 11 | Jason Klunk
In this article I go over how I installed the universal bunk windows from CR Laurence in my ProMaster. I bought these windows at the same I bought my sliding door window, but I was hesitant about installing them so I kept putting it off. I’m so glad I decided to put them in, they provide great air flow, and make the space seem bigger with the natural light. As always, measure 1000x and cut once!
4] Create a template for cutting out the hole. Use the cardboard from the box the window came in. Use the frame and trace on the inside onto the cardboard.
5] Place your template on the inside of the panel. Make sure you figure out where your walls are going to be so that you have it centered with your actual layout and not just with the rear panel. Get it taped up, again make sure it’s exactly where the window needs to be. Using a marker, trace around the template.
6] Using an 1/8″ drill bit, put two holes through the template, into the van metal. You will use these holes to place the template in the exact same spot on the outside of the van to do another round of verifying the placement.
7] Remove the template. Put a drill bit in each of the holes. Put the template on the outside of the van, using the drill bits to hold up the template. Measure from the top to make sure the template is level. If all looks good, move on. If not, attempt to get the template square.
8] Tape up any holes around where you are going to cut so you have an easier time cleaning up the sheet metal. If you are cutting on the side of the van with the sliding door, make sure to tape the metal door track on the outside of the van so that shavings don’t get behind it.
9] On the inside of the van, tape around your cutout line to help avoid scratching the van with your jigsaw. You can also place tape on the bottom of the feet of your jigsaw .
10] Put a few larger starter holes in the cutout area with a drill so the jigsaw blade will fit. Cut out the hole in your van using a jigsaw. Go slow and take your time. Make sure you are wearing safety goggles. It’s helpful to tape up the pieces you’ve cut to help it from bouncing around.
10] Remove the piece that you cutout. Use safety gloves to handle the metal.
11] File down the edge of the cutout. Test fit your window. If the window does not fit, file some more or use your jigsaw if a lot needs to come off, but be careful as the metal will want to bend.
12] Clean around the cutout with simple green. Paint the edges with Por-15. The foam brushes help with this process. Wait for the paint to dry.
13] Place your window in the hole, make sure the window sits all the way in.
14] Have somebody hold the window from the outside as you get the frame set on the inside.
15] Using a drill, pre drill all the holes for the screws. Start installing screws into the frame using a screwdriver (not a drill). The window will suck in nice and tight, you’ll be able to tell when you should stop tightening.
16] Using a hose, do a spray test on the window. From the inside, check to make sure nothing is leaking around the window.
Good luck and let me know if you have questions. I’ll be moving onto my ceiling next, so stay tuned. Yewwwww!
