In this article I go over how I installed the universal bunk windows from CR Laurence in my ProMaster. I bought these windows at the same I bought my sliding door window, but I was hesitant about installing them so I kept putting it off. I’m so glad I decided to put them in, they provide great air flow, and make the space seem bigger with the natural light. As always, measure 1000x and cut once!

Materials/Tools Required

CRL Bunk Window VW1033L (Driver side)
CRL Bunk Window VW1033R (Passenger side)
Por 15 Top Coat Spray Paint
Bosch T118G Jigsaw Blades
Driver Drill
Foam Brushes
Simple Green Cleaner
Safety Goggles
Metal File

ProMaster CR Laurence Universal Window Installation Steps

1] Remove the cross support from the rear panel. You can drill out the spot welds and then take a hammer/screwdriver to pound it out.

2] Clean up the leftover adhesive/glue.

3] File any rough metal and paint with the Por 15 Top Coat Spray Paint

4] Create a template for cutting out the hole. Use the cardboard from the box the window came in. Use the frame and trace on the inside onto the cardboard.

5] Place your template on the inside of the panel. Make sure you figure out where your walls are going to be so that you have it centered with your actual layout and not just with the rear panel. Get it taped up, again make sure it’s exactly where the window needs to be. Using a marker, trace around the template.

6] Using an 1/8″ drill bit, put two holes through the template, into the van metal. You will use these holes to place the template in the exact same spot on the outside of the van to do another round of verifying the placement.

7] Remove the template. Put a drill bit in each of the holes. Put the template on the outside of the van, using the drill bits to hold up the template. Measure from the top to make sure the template is level. If all looks good, move on. If not, attempt to get the template square.

8] Tape up any holes around where you are going to cut so you have an easier time cleaning up the sheet metal. If you are cutting on the side of the van with the sliding door, make sure to tape the metal door track on the outside of the van so that shavings don’t get behind it.

9] On the inside of the van, tape around your cutout line to help avoid scratching the van with your jigsaw. You can also place tape on the bottom of the feet of your jigsaw .

10] Put a few larger starter holes in the cutout area with a drill so the jigsaw blade will fit. Cut out the hole in your van using a jigsaw. Go slow and take your time. Make sure you are wearing safety goggles. It’s helpful to tape up the pieces you’ve cut to help it from bouncing around.

10] Remove the piece that you cutout. Use safety gloves to handle the metal.

11] File down the edge of the cutout. Test fit your window. If the window does not fit, file some more or use your jigsaw if a lot needs to come off, but be careful as the metal will want to bend.

12] Clean around the cutout with simple green. Paint the edges with Por-15. The foam brushes help with this process. Wait for the paint to dry.

13] Place your window in the hole, make sure the window sits all the way in.

14] Have somebody hold the window from the outside as you get the frame set on the inside.

15] Using a drill, pre drill all the holes for the screws. Start installing screws into the frame using a screwdriver (not a drill). The window will suck in nice and tight, you’ll be able to tell when you should stop tightening.

16] Using a hose, do a spray test on the window. From the inside, check to make sure nothing is leaking around the window.

Good luck and let me know if you have questions. I’ll be moving onto my ceiling next, so stay tuned. Yewwwww!

In this article I go over how I did panels for the walls in my ProMaster.

I used ¼” birch plywood on the area where it’s going to be covered by cabinets. I used ½” birch in the back where my bench seats will be. There is nothing complicated about this process, just watch out for your bolts in your furring strips.

Sometimes it’s hard to picture how everything is going to turn out, but this is a nice little baby step for getting to see a few things come together.

Materials/Tools Required

1/2″ Birch Plywood
1/4″ Birch Plywood
Kreg Pocket Hole Jig
Makita Driver Drill
Miter Saw
Makita Circular Saw
Dewalt Safety Goggles

Ram ProMaster Wall Paneling Steps

1] Using kraft paper, create templates for your wall panels.

2] Cut out the panels using a circular saw and jigsaw.

3] Get the panels in the right spot, predrill your holes (make sure to watch out for the bolts in the furring strips), and then screw the panels into the furring strips.

In this article I go over how I framed out my van. Most spots I had to double up my 1/2” birch plywood to create 1” strips. In some places I used 3/4″ poplar and some places it was built up 2”. It really all depends on how you are trying to lay out your walls, what you want flush, what you’re doing with the weird awkward beams, etc. I had specific areas I needed flush so mine may be different than what you are doing.

Crossnuts/plusnuts are great when they work and horrible when they don’t! Make sure you double/triple check your installation before you put a bolt in them! The Astro 1450 Plusnut tool is well worth the money.

Materials/Tools Required

10-32 Steel Cross Nut Pre-Bulbed
1/4-20 Steel Cross Nut Pre-Bulbed
Astro 1450
Miter Saw
Kraft Paper
Circular Saw
Dewalt Safety Goggles

Ram ProMaster Framing Steps

1] Rip furring strips out of 1/2″ plywood.

2] Using the Astro 1450, install cross nuts throughout the van. Take advantage of the existing holes in the van, but drill new ones if you need them in a certain spot.

Make sure you get these installed correctly. Before attaching any plywood, make sure you can get a bolt in/out a few times without the cross nut spinning. If it’s spinning, it’s not installed correctly or tight enough.

3] Determine where you’re going to need studs for you walls/cabinets/etc, and install furring strips using bolts going directly into the cross nuts.

4] For the ceiling in the front/back of the van you have to get a little creative so that your ceiling isn’t just danging on the ends. In the front of the van, there is another stud you can hit. You can either remove the headliner and install a furring strip underneath like the rest of the cargo area, or you can hit the side with some custom pieces.

For the back, you can drill into the back of the van, rather than the ceiling. Just watch out for the light/rear camera wires.

I used a variety of wood in this part of the van, but mostly 1/2″ birch plywood and poplar 1×3’s.

In the next article, we’ll start putting up the walls in the van.